PRINT: Rock Climb Chickenhorn, Central Ohio

Chickenhorn

5.10d, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),

Avg: 2.7 from 25 votes
FA: Jordan Katz, Ian Kirk, June '20
Ohio > Central Ohio > Marne Rd > D. Katz Wall

Access Issue: Private Property Details

The right (east) side, all roped climbing, is owned by Village of Hanover, which seems ambivalent to climbing. Left side, bouldering, is private property, but the owner has not had a problem with climbing SO FAR. Continued access is far from guaranteed! Rapidly growing crag traffic has become a potential issue.

On the bouldering (west) side, please do not hang out up top or go exploring above the main cliff line. It is private property and we need to keep a low profile. The owner has been hands off so far. Let's try to ensure things stay that way please. Hanging out up top could cause problems with the property owner.

Please do not climb above the roped climbs. Hanging out on the edge of the cliff without ropes is dangerous and the last thing we want is to have an ambulance/injury/fatality there. Please don't endanger crag access through short-sighted behavior!

Please be upstanders and take good care of the crag to help preserve access. Don't leave your trash, and even pack out any trash somebody else might have left behind.

Description

Climb through a series a bulges, some easy, some hard. The last one will likely give you pause and require a pretty good reach. Take it all the way to the top on some easy but insecure slab.

The rock around the 1st bolt does tend to seep in the winter/spring, but the rest stays dry. Best to catch it in the fall, but often climbable year-round.

Location

On a buttress/bulge between two very large crack systems. Between Silver Streaks and My First Time.

Protection

7 bolts plus anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Silver Streaks on the left, and Chickenhorn on the right!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Maxwell Williams
Maineville, OH

5.11-

Any tips for that really reachy bulge move at the end? I struggled hard there, and I'm guessing my fellow short climbers do to. Otherwise this route felt like a lot of 5.9 moves with a really hard bar to clear at the end.

One note is that the tough spot at the end has a bolt directly below it, which is much appreciated. Any whips you take trying that move will be super well protected. Apr 27, 2021

climb2core

Beta spoiler for last bulge: Work left at first reaching up to crimp. Then go to two slopers up and right a bit. The key for me was a high right foot on the right side of the bulge on a small ledge. It is about shoulder height when you are standing below the bolt. Use the R foot to pull to your right and push up to reach the next shelf. May 5, 2021