PRINT: Rock Climbing in The Northern End, Central Oregon

The Northern End

Oregon > Central Oregon > Trout Creek

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries Details

2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.

SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND

Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.

Description

The northern end is home to Trout's lower-angled, easier cracks. This is an excellent place to bring newcomers who aren't going to have fun on 5.10 cracks.

Getting There

Take the new trail that leaves the river after passing a bench on the right and after the river road jogs around a small berm. This trail was put in so that folks looking for 5.8-5.9 cracks wouldn't have to go the long way around and boulder hop across the whole main wall to and from the Northern End.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 0 ● Underground Up Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 8 ● Ninjinski Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 30 ● Where's Noah Vibbert Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 40 ● Rodeo Crack Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 28 ● Bedside Manner Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 61 ● Salad Daze Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 32 ● The Northern Throne Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 41 ● The Wiggle Room Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 7 ● Zippin' Your Shin Skin Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 88 ● Usual Suspects Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 24 ● The Beer Float Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 8 ● Mr. Green Jeans Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 26 ● Great Googlie Moogli Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 19 ● Desperado Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 13 ● Ol' Dirty Bastard Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 93 ● Talkin' It Clean Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 44 ● T-Handles Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 7 ● Craig Luebben Memorial Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 15 ● Unknown Moderate Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 40 ● Route 66 Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 27 ● Plumbline Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 57 ● Anorexic Doughboy Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 57 ● Shasta Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 104 ● Lively Up Yourself Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 54 ● The Gods Must Be Angry Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 39 ● Sleepy Hallow Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 18 ● Girls with Chim(n)ay Trad

● Underground Up

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad

● Ninjinski

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad

● Where's Noah Vibbert

5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad

● Rodeo Crack

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad

● Bedside Manner

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

● Salad Daze

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

● The Northern Throne

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

● The Wiggle Room

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad

● Zippin' Your Shin Skin

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad

● Usual Suspects

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

● The Beer Float

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

● Mr. Green Jeans

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

● Great Googlie Moogli

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad

● Desperado

5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad

● Ol' Dirty Bastard

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad

● Talkin' It Clean

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad

● T-Handles

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

● Craig Luebben Memorial

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

● Unknown Moderate

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad

● Route 66

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

● Plumbline

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

● Anorexic Doughboy

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

● Shasta

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

● Lively Up Yourself

104

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad

● The Gods Must Be Angry

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad

● Sleepy Hallow

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad

● Girls with Chim(n)ay

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Takin' It Clean area

Girls with Chim(n)ay

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

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Rock here felt much sharper than the main wall, definitely recommend taping. Aug 12, 2016