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(f) Cocaine Gully

Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

The Cocaine Gully sits parallel to the Aggro gully to its right. The short steep walk is well worth it to get to the pumpfests found within.

Getting There

The Cocaine Gully lies between the West Ship and the Morning Glory Wall. Follow a path up underneath the right side of the gigantic boulder at its mouth of the gully, then take the trails up as high as you need them.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 12
● Hobbit's Pockets
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
● Hippos on Ice
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
● Exile On Main Street
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 14
● Thieves
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 1
● Clear Eyes
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 165
● Bloodshot
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 21
● Quest to Fire
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 87
● [Redacted]
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
● Crack Cocaine
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 2
● Bongo Fury
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 86
● Armageddon
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 72
● Deep Impact
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 24
● Bound in Bogata
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 1
● Rabid
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 19
● Shake 'n Flake
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 75
● Powder Up the Nose
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 78
● Freebase
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 368
● Vomit Launch
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
● Cocaine Crack
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 259
● Chicken McNuggets
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 50
● Happy Meal
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 18
● Skeleton Surfer
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 13
● The Blade
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Hobbit's Pockets
 12
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Hippos on Ice
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Exile On Main Street
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Thieves
 14
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Clear Eyes
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Bloodshot
 165
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Quest to Fire
 21
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● [Redacted]
 87
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Crack Cocaine
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Bongo Fury
 2
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
● Armageddon
 86
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Deep Impact
 72
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Bound in Bogata
 24
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Rabid
 1
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Shake 'n Flake
 19
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Powder Up the Nose
 75
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Freebase
 78
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Vomit Launch
 368
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Cocaine Crack
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● Chicken McNuggets
 259
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Happy Meal
 50
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Skeleton Surfer
 18
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● The Blade
 13
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Connor on Vomit
[Hide Photo] Connor on Vomit

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] The traditional approach (via the climber's right side of the gully) has been closed due to the high frequency of rockfall. The base of Vomit Launch is right at the top of it and anything knocked down by parties up there scours the tunnel and anyone in it.

There is a reasonable alternative on the extreme climber's left side of the gully which involves some maybe-exposed 4th classing, (comparable to Asterisk Pass) but has far less loose rock. Dec 16, 2011
kent benesch
[Hide Comment] There is now a rappel anchor to facilitate an easy and safe descent from Cocaine Gully. The anchor is located at the left hand side (as you look towards the river)of the gully near the base of The Blade. 2 stainless bolts with long chains. Spread the word! Apr 18, 2015
OSZAR »